Time: it’s about 12 o’clock at night
location: Bhootnath cremation ground at the foothills of Kamakhya Shaktipeeth, 11 km to the north from Guwahati
Fires smoldering all around. Eyes burning with the flames and rising smoke… The black and white color of the ashes was leaving marks on the clothes and the heat was so much that the skin was damaged. In the midst of all this, tantriks are sitting in samadhis. Some are chanting near the funeral pyre, while some are engrossed in the practice of tantra.
Mother Kamakhya, the goddess of Tantra, is still in menstruation, that is, menstruating. For the next three days, that is, on the morning of June 26, at 7.51 am, she will rest in the Kundali Chakra. Till then there will be no work in the fields and barns of Assam. The soil will not be touched. There will be sutak in Hindu homes. The lamp will not burn, nor will there be worship. During this, tantriks from all over the country have gathered here. The atmosphere is like a fair, the event is called Ambubachi Mela.
Reporter Manisha stayed the whole night amidst burning pyres. Spent about two days in and around the Kamakhya temple. His eye-catching report from the crematorium…
As soon as I come to the crematorium, I become barefoot. There are pyres all around or the ashes emanating from them are scattered. I was getting shivering even in keeping my feet. I do not know, keeping my feet on the ashes of many pyres, I am roaming in the crematorium. Every step is intimidating.
Sitting in front of a pyre, Lal Baba is doing tantra. Between him and the pyre, there is a vermilion-coloured vermilion on the plate and a large human bone in Baba’s hand. I had just reached Baba that while reciting the mantra, he placed a bone colored with vermilion on my head. Now he was neither getting up nor sitting. Waking up, I was afraid that Baba might get angry. It was safe to stay seated.
Baba asked the name and while reciting the mantra threw something in the fire. Having rubbed the pyre’s pyre on my forehead, said – go and remember Baba. No one can understand what is happening here, but to see the world here, fear is worth it.
Tantra seekers are sitting all around. Doing meditation Everyone has their own ways. Some are reciting the mantra aloud while some are fuming on the pyre. A short distance away, two tantriks are chanting mantras on a pyre. One of them gets up and whistles in front of the smoldering ashes of the pyre, making a gesture of calling someone. Then he starts circling around the pyre.
The person standing near me told that the tantrik is calling some powers from the pyre. His gestures seemed as if someone was talking in private.
When she went ahead, the beat of the dholak started resonating in her ears. People are dancing and singing in awe on the music of Dholak, Tongs and Tunki. Everyone’s faces are bright. I wondered… how can such a celebration of someone’s death be celebrated in a crematorium?
The night and the past, it will be around two-and-a-half o’clock… shops are decorated everywhere. Somewhere tea is being made, somewhere there is a dish. People are dancing on the hymns of Mahadev. Seeing the smiling faces and carefree fun walking here, no one can say that all this is happening in front of the pyre. The embers rising from the pyre are falling on the tantrics, as if only the ashes of the pyre are their life-giving. ,
Even women do not mind this crematorium, girls are also dancing
It is said that women do not go to the crematorium, but everyone is here. Even small girls are singing the hymns of Pashupatinath in Assamese. Women are sleeping here and there, walking, dancing. Singing Kabir’s couplets.
Tantra practice till killing people, educated people also come to get it done.
It is almost four-and-a-half time in the morning. The flock of Aghori Babas is coming to the crematorium. They are drinking one by one. Saying stop, please. There are also three Aghori female sadhus, who are doing penance. I asked ‘What are you guys going to do?’ An Aghori told that ‘A doctor is coming for the killing.’
Hearing this, my senses were also blown away. Aghori started saying that this is the family matter of that lady doctor. I asked what are the ingredients needed to kill someone. Got the answer – this is a secret thing. I requested you to tell me something. They started whispering to each other.
Then an Aghori got up and took out an envelope and brought out a basket kept in it and said- ‘Look, this is the stuff of killing.’ Two human sculptures are made out of something resembling flour, which are tied with black thread. I asked – is this flour? So he said that no, there is a lot inside it. Very expensive material. Seeing all this, once I got scared that even educated people do this to kill someone.
The people of Baba Robin Bangladesh, who are present there, say that people do tantric worship for vashikaran, enmity, exaltation, death, job, marriage, studies, different defects. The goods used in such pujas range from one lakh rupees tola to 10 lakh rupees.
For example… Isakatak, Black magic, White magic, Payajodi, Hathpauri. There is an ingredient called Moolchal fruit. It is claimed that if it is rubbed on someone’s hand, then that person forgets to take money from you. Lakhs of rupees have to be paid for such work.
After finishing all these things, as soon as I am about to leave, those doctors, whom Baba was referring to, come. Baba said that take yourself and talk about it. Beautiful in appearance, naive, young, sweet speaking, what this lady is going to do, I do not understand anything. I asked what are you doing… She was scared of my question and started saying that family matter.
Now I am going out and see that the number of people who have spent the night in this crematorium has been counted in thousands.
Here the conversation on vagina, menstruation, sex is extremely common.
One thing amazes me that the part of a woman’s body, which is considered a sin even to mention in a temple, is talked about openly here. People are talking about the words like vagina, menstruation, gender. After bowing down to Kameshwari and Kameshwar in the main temple, there is a dark cave at a distance of ten steps below. Where you have to go through crooked stairs.
On reaching here, a small square is covered with clothes. Surrounded by water. Devotees are touching that water and applying it to the forehead, drinking it. Some devotees are also taking him home after filling it in Gadvi. This is the vagina, which is always kept covered with clothes. It is so deep that one has to touch it with one’s knees bent.
Pigeons are visible above the temple. Sindoor is applied on them. When he asked the pigeon, he started telling that the pigeon is made to fly by applying vermilion to remove the disease from the body and fulfill the wishes. Here a pigeon is found for about 500 rupees.
Here the Naga Sadhus are in clothes, because they cannot be naked in front of their mother.
The temple does not have any office of its own here. Juna and Kinnar Akhara handle the administration of the temple. Naga Sadhus from all over the country have come to Juna Akhara. There’s a lot of activity. The flame is being blown. Jatadharis are fuming with bhabhut. Female Naga Sadhus are also doing sadhna. The interesting thing is that these Naga Sadhus are in full clothes. They say that Kamakhya is their mother and they cannot live without clothes in front of their mother.
No Dharamshala, one day’s rent from 3 thousand to 10 thousand
There are many shops within a radius of about one kilometer from the temple premises. Where Mauli, Shankh, Narmund, Rudraksh garland and Prasad are being sold. Ambubachi fair is being organized for the first time after Corona. So the happiness of the shopkeepers has doubled.
The big problem is that there is no Dharamshala or Hotel here. The houses of 466 pandas who worship in the temple are here. They have built a messy house here. One has to stay in it, but for one day, they charge three to ten thousand rupees.
Credit: www.bhaskar.com /